Ah, Biryani! The word itself is practically sacred in the culinary world, yet we constantly find it caught in a messy identity crisis. Every so-called biryani from Kolkata to Karachi claims to be the ‘real deal’, but let’s cut to the chase: if it’s not Hyderabadi Dum Biryani, specifically mutton, it’s simply not biryani. Chicken fans, apologies, but your beloved bird just doesn’t cut it here. Call it a rice and chicken medley or pulao, but please, don’t misuse the word biryani.
The origins of Hyderabadi Dum Biryani
Hyderabadi Dum Biryani’s journey begins in the kitchens of the Nizams of Hyderabad in the late 17th century. When Mughlai and Persian influences mingled with the Deccani cooking style, the Nizams’ chefs were tasked with creating a meal that was both hearty and regal. They crafted a layered dish of rice and marinated meat, cooked under dum (steam) to allow the spices and ingredients to blend seamlessly. This slow-cooking technique brought out an intense depth of flavour, creating a culinary legacy that lives on today.
The ‘pretenders’ across the country and beyond
It’s not as if I haven’t given these other ‘biryanis’ a fair shot. From the streets of Lucknow to the skyscrapers of the Gulf, I’ve ventured into plenty of restaurants promising a taste of home. Some even come close, thanks to dedicated Deccani chefs who’ve taken their heritage abroad. But here’s the catch — they often cater to regional palates, which means dialling down the spice and dialling up the oil. As a result, what’s served is often a well-meaning imposter, lacking that fiery burst of spice and deep, savoury complexity known only to Hyderabadi Biryani lovers.
Then there are the so-called biryanis that make you wonder how they even claim the name — Fish Biryani, Egg Biryani, Shrimp Biryani, Chicken Tikka Biryani, Vegetable Biryani, Mushroom Biryani, Paneer Biryani, and even Soyabean Biryani! Sure, they’re tasty and often enjoyed by those for whom mutton is off the menu, but calling them biryani is a stretch. Not all of these dishes are made with Basmati rice either; some popular versions, like Karnataka’s Donne biryani and Tamil Nadu’s Ambur biryani, use the short-grain jeera samba rice instead.
The true essence of Hyderabadi dum biryani
What sets the Hyderabadi Biryani apart? To start, it’s not the number of spices but the harmony among the few essentials. The spiciness isn’t abrasive; it’s a deep, smoky warmth that lingers, perfectly balanced by the saffron-infused colour and aroma of long-grain Basmati rice. Hyderabadi biryani is all about the dum technique, a process that turns simple ingredients into an orchestra of flavours. Mutton, specifically tender male goat (potla or pottel, for those in the know), is marinated to perfection with curds, ghee, oil, and a carefully curated blend of masalas — think cardamom, cloves, black cumin, cinnamon, and star anise, all balanced by fresh frued onion, green chillies and herbs like mint and coriander.
Then comes the layering, a delicate procedure requiring both patience and skill. The rice is added in stages — partially cooked in increments to achieve the perfect consistency: 40 per cent, 60 per cent, and then 80 per cent cooked rice, each layer melting together in a symphony of aroma and flavour. By the end, each grain is perfectly tender, and every bite carries the essence of dum — cooked in its own steam, allowing flavours to meld without interference. All other pretenders I consider are just pulaos.
Let’s take a look at the ‘contenders’. Pakistani biryanis served in the Gulf, and presumably in Pakistan too, tend to veer towards the oily and mild end. Spicy? Not so much. Lucknow’s so-called biryani — a delicate, fragrant dish — is really more of a yakhni pulao. Cooked with potli masala and fried onions, it has a mild, tangy-sweet profile. Tasty, yes, but let’s not confuse that with the unapologetically bold notes of Hyderabadi spice. Then we have Kolkata biryani, with its claim to fame: the potato. No joke, a potato as a USP in biryani — presumably the legacy of Awadhi cooks who migrated east. Perhaps it has its charms, but it’s not about to dethrone Hyderabadi Dum.
The essential accompaniments
Hyderabadi Dum Biryani is traditionally accompanied by ‘mirchi ka salan’ or ‘baingan masala’, and the famous ‘mutton shorba’ and a side of cooling raita. This biryani doesn’t need the spicy support; it can stand on its own. But for many, the meal feels incomplete without a sweet ending. A true-blue Hyderabadi will likely reach for Double ka Meetha or Qubani ka Meetha, the perfect finish to a biryani feast.
So, when it comes to biryani, let’s stop pretending that all rice and meat dishes belong under the same banner. Hyderabadi Dum Biryani, mutton-only, stands unmatched. The rest, with all due respect, are delightful dishes in their own right — just not biryani.