For those who thrive on tales of chaos, overcrowding, and filth at the Maha Kumbh, this may come as a disappointment. Brace yourselves for a firsthand account that does not involve stampedes, unhygienic waters, or lost pilgrims.
Our group of sixteen from Hyderabad, joined by a couple from Kolkata, set off on an early flight to Lucknow. From there, we hit the road straight to Ayodhya, because no spiritual itinerary in this region is complete without a visit to the Ram Temple and Varanasi.
Ayodhya: A transformed marvel
A year ago, when I visited the Ram Temple, I had a good view of the deity for a couple of minutes. Construction was still under way. Now, it is a transformed marvel, yet still a work in progress. The crowd was massive, but that was expected. A long trek, a longer queue, and finally, a fleeting glimpse of the presiding deity late in the night – just a nano-second, thanks to the surge of devotees. No complaints, though. Faith is all about patience, is it not?
Prayagraj: Where faith meets efficiency
Prayagraj, home to the great confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati, welcomed us with long drives, traffic jams, and exhausting treks. But what it did not have were stampedes, a fact that might shock those who believe every large Indian gathering is a disaster waiting to happen.
The Kumbh organisers had planned well – ample, well-marked parking kept chaos at bay. While many trekked the eight kilometres to Sangam, we chose a different adventure: motorbikes. The local riders, with their astonishing skill, zoomed across the pontoon bridge and dusty paths, manoeuvring the bumps and curves like seasoned stuntmen.
At the Boat Club, we hired a couple of boats to reach the confluence. As we set off, a cold breeze swept over us, and the cawing of hundreds of migratory Siberian seagulls filled the air. Our boats moved steadily amid an armada of oar and motor boats, all heading toward the Sangam. The sight was as surreal as it was serene.
Hundreds of boats, big and small, were moored together, creating a floating maze. Walking over a flotilla, we reached the shallow waters, took our dips, and let the cool, soothing waves wash over us. Hours of bumpy rides and fatigue faded, along with the sins of this life – and perhaps a few from the past. Like millions of others, we filled our empty bottles with the sacred waters, a liquid souvenir for friends and family.
The waters are cleaner than you think
Apologies again to the doomsayers – Prayagraj’s waters were sparkling clean. We had expected murky depths, thanks to viral social media posts, but reality was a different story. The water was so fresh and inviting that stepping out of it was harder than stepping in. If pollution is the talking point, it certainly was not part of our experience.
Varanasi: A boat ride, but no darshan
The final leg of our journey took us to Varanasi. Gliding along the ghats in a boat on the mighty Ganga was serene, but visiting the Kashi Vishwanath Temple remained a dream. The queues stretched miles, a serpentine mass of jostling devotees. With an estimated wait time of eight hours for darshan, time was our only shortcoming.
Monalisa: From selling beads to Bollywood
One of my secret hopes at Prayagraj was to meet Monalisa, the blue-eyed bead seller who became a media sensation. Last seen charming TV reporters and YouTubers with her wit and striking looks, she has now reportedly bagged roles in Bollywood. Perhaps, next time, I will not spot her at the ghats but on the big screen.
Kumbh 2169: Hyperloops, drones, and teleportation?
As we journeyed back, we speculated about the next Maha Kumbh. Will hyperloops replace Vande Bharat trains? Will drones, trams, and jet skis ferry pilgrims from parking areas straight to the confluence? Or will teleportation become a reality? Perhaps our great-grandchildren will look back in amusement at how primitive we were, relying on planes, trains, motorbikes, and boats.
Only time will tell. But for now, Maha Kumbh 2025 stands as a testament to faith, impeccable planning, and a few surprises that defy every negative stereotype.